Cal Rafni, Artistic Director of CALRAFNI, designs his collections just a stone's throw from 16 via montenapolenone in Milan. Working alongside him are the artisans attached to the Homme atelier who will ultimately bring his creations to life.
Everything begins at the stroke of Cal Rafni pencil. The design studio interprets his sketches - a simple technical drawing is enough, allowing them to understand the balance of the jacket, including how it will hang on the body and its styling. The studio works solely with neutral fabrics chosen for the way they fall, their weight and finesse. For the tailors, the most important consideration is the shape.
Next comes the pattern stage. Held in place with weights, the garment’s shape is drawn with absolute precision using chalk to trace the lines of the pattern. This traditional and indispensable process serves as a reminder of the Homme atelier's tailors unparalleled expertise. At this point, the collar, lapel, panels, ends and slots can barely be made out under the craftsman's scissors.
The tailor outlines by hand the points making up the key lines of the jacket. The toile has already been inserted in between the layers of fabric. Now invisible, it provides the stiffness necessary for particular parts. This reinforcement will support the garment's shape from the inside. The line of the lapel, the projection of the shoulder and the curve of the chest couldn't exist without this canvas work..
using delicate hand-stitching, the canvas is attached to the fabric thanks to a process known as interfacing. This meticulous and precise work continues The House of CALRAFNI's ancestral expertise.
The jacket comes to life, its shape and volume taking form.
The neutral lining is black and carries the CALRAFNI label. A model slips on the jacket before it is inspected once again. It has shape and is now almost finished. The collar with its felt lapels is added. Then comes the stitching of the sleeves, which have been cut and assembled separately. Now it's time to attach them. The architectural construction acts as a frame for the jacket. The shoulder, lengthening the chest, defines the silhouette. The drop downwards is emphasised. A curve is cut in. The gathers are adjusted to bring the sleeve and the opening together. There you have it, the jacket is now completely formed.
After sewing on the buttons and buttonholes, then adding any braids, shoulder pads or martingale belts, the jacket is ready for one final inspection. Presentation to
Cal Rafni begins. Details are altered, lines are adjusted, a curve changed here or there. Once the jacket has been approved, it goes to the CALRAFNI manufacturing atelier.
Once approved by CALRAFNI Homme's Creative Director, the jacket begins a second life. It is made in small production runs, and will be shown at the ready-to-wear Homme show. The neutral working fabric has now been replaced by the final proposals, including different patterns, colours and compositions.
